Thursday, May 26, 2011

Beefeater London Dry

Gin is the abstract expressionist of the alcohol universe. It's a fearless drink, showcasing a cacophony of bold botanicals and spices with an allowable level of variance and flexibility not seen in other spirits. Using a fine grain spirit as its canvas and juniper berries as its brush, gin composes a wide range of styles ranging from the relatively simple and delicate American Dry to the complex and robust London Dry. Each style combines juniper at varying levels with a multitude of other flavorings to give each gin a unique identity and each gin drinker a unique experience.

I don't have a problem with modern stylish gins that lean toward the lighter, more citrusy end of the flavor spectrum. They taste fine, I just feel they are a bit one-sided. I happen to prefer the older styled gins that honor their deep French (genièvre) and Dutch (jenever) origins. Gins that have stiff upper lips, two fistfuls of juniper berries, and the ability to pirouette in pointe shoes. I like deeply complex gins made in copper pot stills with quality ingredients by skilled craftsmen. I like Beefeater London Dry Gin.


For starters, the bottle design is really cool. A clear square bottle with a  proud Yeomen Warder marching on the front with a stylized Tower of London seen though the bottle on the back label. The sides are embossed with "Made in London" in big bold letters going up one side and down the other. The year "1820"  is embossed at the base of neck notating the first year of manufacture. And I cant quite explain how, but the bottle neck/cap design seems to fit more snugly than regular screw on caps.

The smell of juniper bursts from the bottle like a can of Shasta shaken in a paint mixer. Spicy orange peel, coriander(cilantro) seed, and various other floral notes lurk beneath the fresh juniper berries on the nose. When lightly swirled, the long legged thickness of the gin acts an enchanting wink from inside the glass. The taste is like nothing else. Its like a juniper bush sweating in your mouth. Juniper berry sap coats the inside of your head while the zesty citrus moves the liquorice and marzipan down your gullet. The thick oily body of Beefeater is truly a delight and the smoothness of it is otherworldly. Showcasing its quality of distillation and skill of the craftsmen who created it, the gentle comforting sting that is 94 proof gin gives way to a lukewarm burn. Juniper lingers with a happy tingling tongue. The official score of the match is 37 of the Queens Jewels out of 22. At around $20 this bottle is a must have for any gin appreciator. 

Martinis made with this world class gin are an absolute delight. The intense flavor and high proof can be a bit much for some and may require additional cooling over ice before adding the vermouth and serving. I can think of no better cocktail on a warm afternoon than a cool Beefeater martini. That same intensity makes Beefeater well suited for gin and tonics. Readily available tonic is so drastically over sweetened with corn syrup that it forces most gins  into the background of bitter tonic wash. Beefeater has the depth to penetrate through the sweetness and create a much more enjoyable drink than your typical bitter-sweet fizzy gin and tonic. 

G&T
  • 3oz Gin (Beefeater)
  • Tonic
  • Lime Wedge
Fill a rocks/old fashioned glass with ice. Pour Gin over ice. Top with tonic. Lime to taste.

cheers

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Noilly Prat Dry

Finding out that you really like something you previously disliked is an exciting event. The enjoyment creates new emotions as you stumble though your confusion and wash away your previous negative convictions with new positive feelings. It's a much more poignant experience than enjoying something you are trying for the first time. The catharsis creates a void that is instantly filled with an abundance of positivity resulting in a more intense experience. I was privileged to such an event with a very misunderstood alcohol.

At one time I was convinced that dry vermouth was just bitter bath water used to dilute high proof gin. I ordered it in my martinis out of habit and never reasoned as to why such an unapproachable alcohol would be used in such a popular cocktail. I blame my own youth naivety and cheapskate bars unwilling to throw out spoiled booze. Who knew there was such a huge difference between a fresh bottle of high quality vermouth and a six month old unrefrigerated fly trap. Understanding and appreciating the deep complexity of vermouth can be bit of a challenge. But if you're patient, open minded, and willing to give second chances, you will find that vermouth is an alcohol that deserves respect.  


Vermouth is a fortified aromatized wine. That means it's fermented grape juice that has alcohol and spices added to it. While I can appreciate others, Noilly Prat (nwa-ly prat) original is by far my favorite. The 200 year old original "European" recipe holds firm as the dominant dry French vermouth. Only recently available in the U.S., this version of Noilly is far more delicious than the bland discontinued "American" version. Using a combination of indoor and outdoor cask aging, select alcohol infusion, and significant herbal fortification, Noilly dry is like nothing else.



The complexity of this vermouth is astounding. Huge wood and spice on the nose with a gentle, but defiantly present, sweet white wine undertone. Lumberjack wood with coriander, orange, clove, and chamomile, sticking out with what I believe to be wormwood sneaking around in the background.  I have only had absinthe once so I'm admittedly not well learned in the art of wormwood. I also somehow get this neat open air, seawater like must mid palate. The nearly constant wave of changing flavors seems to last for days as the long bitter to sweet to bitter battle leads to a smooth alcohol finish. It's like 8 M. C. Escher staircases to nowhere beating 3.5 hands drawing them selves in an arm wrestling match. If you want a good flavorful martini, Noilly is your vermouth. Even at in a gin heavy 5:1 martini Noilly Dry will add character. Always drink it cold and store it in a refrigerator. It's a wine so be aware it will spoil if not consumed within about six weeks.

cheers

Saturday, May 7, 2011

Martini

Q. Why did the bartender grab a bottle of vodka during his preparation of your martini? A. Ian Fleming hates you.

The martini is the quintessential cocktail. Even when its represented as caricature, clear liquid gently suspending an olive in an elevated triangular glass, it's unmistakable. Brimming with sophistication and class, the martini is a classic piece of sparkling Americana. With it's four humble ingredients and minimal preparation, the martini is the ultimate dichotomic display of complex simplicity. However, naming those four ingredients and its style of preparation can become a flamboyant display of self defense.

I think vodka is great. It's a clean, understated spirit that I find delicious. I think gin is great. It's a timeless, incredibly complex spirit that I find delicious. I think substituting vodka for gin in a martini is not great. It's as wise as batting yourself in the face with a cactus. A martini is: Gin (preferably London Dry or Plymouth) and Dry Vermouth (preferably French), stirred over Ice, served up, garnished with Olives. Vodka with vermouth and an olive is not a martini. I have always identified that drink by its more common name "vodka and vermouth with an olive." Cold "new age" flavorless gin, shaken, then poured in a glass lined with vermouth is also not a martini. It's not cool, hip, or trendy, it's tasteless and silly. I call those things " 10th round Rocky Balboas" or "cold glasses of gin." Martinis are meant to be bold flavorful drinks expressing the wonderful flavors of juniper, spice, and wood. Using ingredients that do not present that palette to you are less than optimal and should be avoided in martinis.

Once you have the proper ingredients you can start to have some fun and experiment with gin to vermouth ratios. The IBA suggests a 5:1 gin to vermouth ratio for a classic dry martini and I couldn't agree more. 5:1 gives the gin plenty of room without completely drowning out the vermouth. 5:1 is an excellent starting point for newcomers. If you are like me and enjoy vermouth, give a wet martini a whirl and boost your vermouth levels. The wood and spice of the added vermouth create a slightly darker flavor profile. Really break the mold if you have a good bottle of vermouth and try a 2:1 martini.The "traditional" martini is really great but those unfamiliar with vermouth may find it a bit off-putting. The gin should always be dominant but substituting a bit more vermouth will lead to exciting flavor adventures.

Once your martini is complete the garnish selection begins. This I feel is completely subjective. I am a purist and only prefer vermouth soaked olives but I could see a lemon zest being enjoyable in a dry martini made with a strong citrus forward gin. The complex bouquet of a good gin will be complimented by both types of garnish. Fear not for a good martini will not be offended by your choice of garnish.



Finding your favorite cocktail can take a lifetime. Don't be afraid to try new drinks or variants of an old favorite. Share the joys that accompany good food and good drink. But be aware that if at any point we should find ourselves in an establishment that substitutes scotch for tequila in a margarita, rum for vodka in a cosmopolitan, or absinthe for bourbon in an old fashioned, please tell the ostentatious mixologist behind the bar that ill have a beer.

Martini stirred, not shaken.

  1. 4oz. Gin
  2. 1oz. Dry Vermouth
  3. 2 Olives
If soaking olives in vermouth do so 15 minutes beforehand. Chill serving glass with ice water. Stir gin and vermouth over ice in metal shaker with bar spoon for 15 to 30 seconds. If high proof gin (50% alcohol) allow to rest in shaker for 30 seconds to1 minute. Empty serving glass. Single strain up. Serve with olives loose in glass or on skewer.

  • For a "Dirty Martini" add .5oz olive brine to finished martini. 
  • For a "not martini" substitute vodka for gin. 

cheers