Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Noilly Prat Dry

Finding out that you really like something you previously disliked is an exciting event. The enjoyment creates new emotions as you stumble though your confusion and wash away your previous negative convictions with new positive feelings. It's a much more poignant experience than enjoying something you are trying for the first time. The catharsis creates a void that is instantly filled with an abundance of positivity resulting in a more intense experience. I was privileged to such an event with a very misunderstood alcohol.

At one time I was convinced that dry vermouth was just bitter bath water used to dilute high proof gin. I ordered it in my martinis out of habit and never reasoned as to why such an unapproachable alcohol would be used in such a popular cocktail. I blame my own youth naivety and cheapskate bars unwilling to throw out spoiled booze. Who knew there was such a huge difference between a fresh bottle of high quality vermouth and a six month old unrefrigerated fly trap. Understanding and appreciating the deep complexity of vermouth can be bit of a challenge. But if you're patient, open minded, and willing to give second chances, you will find that vermouth is an alcohol that deserves respect.  


Vermouth is a fortified aromatized wine. That means it's fermented grape juice that has alcohol and spices added to it. While I can appreciate others, Noilly Prat (nwa-ly prat) original is by far my favorite. The 200 year old original "European" recipe holds firm as the dominant dry French vermouth. Only recently available in the U.S., this version of Noilly is far more delicious than the bland discontinued "American" version. Using a combination of indoor and outdoor cask aging, select alcohol infusion, and significant herbal fortification, Noilly dry is like nothing else.



The complexity of this vermouth is astounding. Huge wood and spice on the nose with a gentle, but defiantly present, sweet white wine undertone. Lumberjack wood with coriander, orange, clove, and chamomile, sticking out with what I believe to be wormwood sneaking around in the background.  I have only had absinthe once so I'm admittedly not well learned in the art of wormwood. I also somehow get this neat open air, seawater like must mid palate. The nearly constant wave of changing flavors seems to last for days as the long bitter to sweet to bitter battle leads to a smooth alcohol finish. It's like 8 M. C. Escher staircases to nowhere beating 3.5 hands drawing them selves in an arm wrestling match. If you want a good flavorful martini, Noilly is your vermouth. Even at in a gin heavy 5:1 martini Noilly Dry will add character. Always drink it cold and store it in a refrigerator. It's a wine so be aware it will spoil if not consumed within about six weeks.

cheers

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