Monday, August 1, 2011

Silver Coyote Whiskey

The American microbrewing industry has been on a roll these last few years by trumpeting quality over quantity and redefining what we yanks call beer. In the last ten years hordes of Americans have been finding the flavors offered by the micro industry far superior to that of the generally lackluster macro fare. This should come as no surprise. High quality ingredients and craftsmanship will always produce a better alcohol than one that is simply created to be advertised on television. While I applaud my fellow countrymen and women for this initial bold step in what will likely be a long journey into proper alcohol appreciation, I  wish to add an additional destination. A destination some may fear but few will regret. A journey into the extremely new but confoundingly delicious realm of Microdistillation.

One of the main reasons microbrewing has become so much more successful than microdistilling these last few years is the increasingly lax regulation of beer manufacturing. I don't mean to downplay the difficulty of opening a new brewery, but relative to microdistillation, microbrewing has got it pretty easy. The severity of the antiquated prohibitionist laws controlling microdistilleries are so intense they're almost keeping the entire industry a secret. Don't get me wrong, I completely understand and agree with the need to strictly regulate alcohol distillation to insure that people aren't being poisoned or killed in some kind of mad scientist explosion. The problem is that the laws are so harsh they are stifling innovation from qualified facilities. Luckily, there is a post-prohibition legal renaissance happening in a few states and local jurisdictions. It's granting a few noble (crazy) individuals permission to create artful new spirits that challenge the status quo. These inspirational craftsmen are willing to conform to the regulatory standards, accept the risk associated with a new business in a new industry, and front the considerable cost of owning and operating a microdistillery. I recently had the utmost pleasure of immersing myself in New Mexico's bravest new microdistillery, Santa Fe Spirits, and their first product Silver Coyote.

My first experience with Santa Fe Spirits was rather informational. The lovely wife was searching for my birthday present in early June when she stumbled upon the Santa Fe Spirits website. She thought a whiskey distillery tour would be a perfect gift but was worried it would be on too short of a notice for a reservation. She decided against it. She told me this story during my delicious birthday dinner. My reaction to her thoughtfulness was nothing but rude. "What!?, New Mexico doesn't have a whiskey distillery. Are you sure? Naah!" I learned two valuable lessons that night: Never doubt your wife, and crow is a bitter dessert.

My level of excitement was immeasurable on the drive up for my distillery tour. I found myself  brimming with questions about the malt, the water, the still, and various other distilling related queries. Upon arrival I was stunned at how small the facility was. For some reason I was expecting a huge warehouse storing thousands of whiskey barrels with a three story pot still. They're called microdistilleries for a reason! The distiller, Nick  Jones, gave me a warm welcome at the front door. After a brief explanation of the future layout of the lobby/tasting room we were off to the magic room. The distilling equipment used at Santa Fe Spirits is the absolute top of the line. Imported German copper kettle, infusion hat, and rectification column with state of the art water management and steam heating. Oh, the smell of a kettle ripe from whiskey distillation. Pure heaven. During the portion of the tour in the climate controlled ageing room for the Glenkeegan (future single malt) and Apple Brandy the owner, Colin Keegan, popped in. He insisted I not leave the distillery without a memento, a neat little shot glass with the Silver Coyote logo on it. Unfortunately, I was a little over zealous and toured before the tasting room was open. Anyone even remotely interested in the art of alcohol distillation must visit this place. If not for the amazing equipment and sampling (soon) but to meet two guys, that I'm convinced, are taking New Mexico to the next level of locally made alcohol respectability.


Silver Coyote is the first creation to make the cut from Santa Fe Spirits' still. It's a 100% pure malt unaged white dog whiskey. Now don't let the "white dog" label throw you. This dram couldn't be further from its Appalachian corn cousin. From the first whiff it's clear that this is like nothing you've ever had. The nose is full of character. It has an initial earthy, vegetal vibe that quickly leads to a tender sweet blanket of malt. The combination closely resembles raisin bread dough. The deliciously thick and smooth mouthfeel  is very enjoyable. The beefy sweet malt is prominent with just a hint of white pepper and nut. The copper gives it depth mid palate with a faint hard mineral and a whisper of mossy rock. Finish is mostly dry. Smooth and astoundingly easy to drink for 92 proof. I'll say 51 trips to the big show out of 16. If your a cocktail fan this is your new favorite clear spirit. The "whiskey 'ritas" me and my wife whipped up were a hoot. The lime and malt are curiously complimentary. I can't wait to see what Nick and Colin come up with next.

Whiskey 'Rita

  1. 2oz. Silver Coyote
  2. 1.5oz. Cointreau
  3. 1oz. Fresh Lime Juice
Shake over ice.  Salt the outer rim of a cold glass with a lime wedge and kosher salt.  Carefully add ice to salted glass.  Single strain over ice.  Serve with lime garnish.


cheers

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