Thursday, July 21, 2011

Hennessy Privilége VSOP

Cognac is a stupendously delicious spirit that is vastly misunderstood by many people in the United States. The word Cognac is a geographical product indicator and a legal certification. It itself is not a spirit. It's used to identify a specific wine growing region of France and specific laws regulating the ingredients, production, labeling, and ageing of brandy made in the region. The French call this certification Appellation d'origine contrôlée (ah-pel-lay-syawn duw-ree-jeen kon-tro-ley) or AOC. It's the same certification granted to sparkling wines made in the Champagne region of France called, you guessed it, ChampagneThe AOC certification is important because you can't label just any brandy a Cognac or sparkling wine a Champagne. Aside from actually having to be from the region, there is an incredibly long list of strict guidelines that must be followed in order for a bottle to adorn the name Cognac or Champagne. These guidelines insure that all AOC certified bottles meet minimum quality standards and present the consumer with a quality product.


Like many fine antique spirits, Cognac's appeal used to be very limited. Only the highest skilled of companies were able to sell their products to the snobbiest of drinkers. However, in the late 90's that completely changed. Cognac's popularity would skyrocket in the U.S. when  mention of it began popping up on rap and hip-hop albums. This caused a major shift in the way Americans both viewed and purchased Cognac. While taking it away from the stuffy smoking rooms of the elite and putting into the dining rooms of regular citizenry was a good thing, there was a slightly negative side effect to this sudden stardom. Alcohol popularity favors big companies.   


Nearly all of the Cognac sold in the U.S. is produced by four big companies: Rémy Martin, Courvoisier, Martell, and Hennessy. Each of these is in turn owned by even bigger conglomerates. This limited pool of popular brands limits flavor possibilities and variety. But, keep in mind the AOC regulations on Cognac. The "worst" Cognac on its roughest day is still damn good brandy. They are all subject to the strict AOC quality standards insuring the reputation of the region stays intact. Like I said, slightly negative. The quality is thorough, there's just limited availability of easy to obtain, reasonably priced "variety" Cognacs.


So it's clear, the only thing i'm familiar with when it comes to Cognac is the technicalities. The only tasting experience I've had before this bottle was with Courvoisier.  I'm no expert but I've had a few glass of brandy and know the basic ins and outs of the spirit.




This beauty was a birthday gift from my favorite person in the world, my totally awesome wife. I am truly in awe at her incredible level of class and her ability to catch me off guard with the perfect gift. If everyone had a mate like her there would be no sadness. C'est magnifique sweetheart. 


Hennessy, one of the worlds oldest Cognac houses, has a funny twist in its origin story that made me smile. It was started in 1765 by an Irishman named Richard Hennessy. By offering an extremely wide range of products Hennessy has become the largest Cognac producer in the world. With offerings from their simple yet enjoyable $25 VS (Very Special) to the absolutely ridiculous $200,000 Baccarat crystal bottle of Beauté du Siécle that is hand delivered in a glass chest by member of the board of directors. 


The VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) I was privileged to  is a beautiful example of a quality brandy. Opens with a nice oak wood presence on the nose with a sweet fruit overtone and a hint of clove. Light mineral presence with slight earthy vine background. The sweet almost syrupy (good) is the first flavor. Grapes and dark fruit hit the tip of the tongue while the nice spice bouquet of clove and distant cinnamon give way to oak mid palate. Gentle but firmly medium mouth feel. The wood finishes it out with very little burn. Very pleasurable to drink. A delicious faint apple lingers as you savor. 72 unpronounceable words out of 40. I can only hope one day I will have the money keep tasty things like this close at hand.


santé

Friday, July 15, 2011

Smithwick's

I'll never forget my dad's favorite belt buckle. It was a large metal oval with an American flag and and an Irish flag crisscrossed and the words "American by birth" above the flags and "Irish by the grace of God" below.  Understood by him not as nationalism, but as as a special reverence for his grandparents culture and his personal link to something greater. Most specifically, (and of course stereotypically) the alcohol that is produced in Ireland. A link I was lucky enough to soak up from him.

The sweet aroma, mellow taste, and velvety smoothness of Irish whiskeys and the tender malty goodness of Irish beers are often copied, but never duplicated. Those relatively gentle and mild flavors that Irish alcohols have has caused their current popularity explosion the U.S. For the masses they are easy drinking, generally inexpensive, and it's fun to sound cool when know how to properly enunciate the booze you are ordering. For the appreciators they are ancient creations that provide a refreshing change of pace and offer subtle expressions of alcohol made with quality ingredients.There are two Irish beers that combine both mass appeal and aficionado snobbery, Guinness and Smithwsick's (both made by Guinness). It's summer so I picked up the lighter Smithwick's Irish Red.


Irish reds are supposed to be easy drinking flavorful ales. They should have a toasted malt charter with a very mild bittering hop. Smithwick's does just that with perfection. Oh, and it's pronounced smidth-iks not smith-wicks just in case your getting one at the pub (bar). The rusty red amber burps up a very nice thick tan head. The toasted malt appears on nose with a just a touch of  caramel malt and a hint of yeast. Very light nose. The taste closely follows the nose. The toasted malt gives the wondrously thick mouthfeel something to play with while the mild caramel malt sweetens things briefly. A very light yeast gives the malt some fruity depth. Quick light balancing hops mid palate. Very straight forward.  A quick metallic whiff before the mildly bitter mostly dry distant hop finish.17 tickets to Dublin out of 10. Let this warm for a slightly more flavorful experience. An absolutely wonderful beer for the summer. Some fried chicken or beer battered fish are absolutely perfect with this beer.

slainte

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Kellerweis Hefeweizen

Since the mid 1980's microbreweries have become increasingly more popular in the U.S. Producing vast amounts of interesting and unique beers, microbreweries have rejuvenated the post prohibition beer market in the U.S. The wild individual spirit and spunky quirkiness that modern microbreweries have injected back into the brewing profession has forever changed the way Americans look at beer makers. It's all thanks to a select few brave souls who decided to challenge the beer status quo in the late 1970's. One of the most influential of these people was Ken Grossman, founder of Sierra Nevada.

Using only the finest ingredients and classic brewing methods, Sierra Nevada has become a poster child for the modern microbrewing age. Producing some the best and most critically acclaimed beers in America, Sierra Nevada has built legions of die hard fans. Lucky for those fans Sierra Nevada's success was not met with the typical "decline in quality to make more money" corporate response. They did it right. They were somehow able to drastically increase production and distribution without sacrificing the quality of their beer. A quantitative and qualitative economic relationship few in the brewing industry are able to successfully pair.

Sierra Nevada, like many American microbreweries, is traditionally known for their copious use of hops in ales. However, unlike other microbreweries Sierra Nevada is huge. There are few microbreweries that can put up the variation and quality found in their collection. The detail they are able to give to each and every one of their releases is magnificent. While I thoroughly enjoy their hoppy delights I have found a gem of a wheat in Sierra Nevada's lineup. The Kellerwies Hefeweizen. Made using the laborious and traditional Bavarian style open fermentation using only  malt (wheat and barley) yeast and water. It's the equivalent of a home run ball hit so hard it flies past the cheap seats over the wall into the parking lot and through a car window.


The Hefe in Hefeweizen means "with yeast", and the Keller in Kellerwies means cellar. So what does Sierra Nevada Kellerweis Hefeweizen mean? Sofa king delicious. The bottle tells you to pour 2/3 , mix sediment yeast with remaining 1/3, finish pour. If you don't do this you will not receive the proper flavor. The yeast is one of the defining traits of this beer. The beautiful murky yellow orange brings forth a perfect thick white foamy head. Sweet clove and banana give a strong presence with a solid wheaty malt and some brisk citrus to back it all up. Amazingly complex nose. The initial taste of sweet bubblegum leads to a bright glazed ham kind of clove. Banana follows mid palate paired with the meaty wheat malt and a light citrus. Finishes simply with nice dry yeasty finish. Simply delicious with an outstandingly smooth and creamy mouth feel. Very refreshing. This is textbook Hefe. 10 times over the 4 lines of instructions with a highlighter. There are very few beers that can combine this level of flavor complexity with quenching refreshment. It is a perfect summertime delight.

cheers

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Sunshine Wheat

Variety is one of the many things that make beer such an awesome drink. Pale lager may be the de facto beer of summer, it's not the only brew that should find its way into your mouth. A few select dark lagers and lighter ales have the capability to bring the flavor with minimal heft to help you enjoy the summer season. One of the absolute best at combining robust flavors with light beer characteristics is wheat beer.

Most wheat beers are either German or Belgian in origin and use top fermenting yeasts. Anything that has "weiss" in its name is likely of German stock (Weizn is German for wheat). Weissbier, Kristalweizen, Hefeweizen, Weizenbock are all examples of German wheat beer. Belgian wheat is a little trickier to spot. Witbier or beers mentioning "white", Lambic, and Gueuze are all made with wheat malt.

American breweries have had great success copying these European styles. So much so that even the macro-breweries are cashing in on wheat brews. Some look to recreate the traditional styles while others merely use them for inspiration. I thought I would kick off my wheat beers with something a little different. A modern take on Belgian spiced ale. The light and enjoyable Sunshine Wheat from New Belgium.


Congrats to New Belgium for celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Keep up the good work. Back to the beer. It is absolutely crucial that you pour this beer into a glass. The flavors and aromas will stay trapped in the bottle creating a not as enjoyable experience. It's a filtered wheat with no sediment yeast so no need to "mix it". The clear Post-it yellow pour grows a fluffy off white head. Lots of bubbles! The orange peel and citrus combine with the spicy light wheat and tender biscuity malts. Little coriander on the nose. The 50/50 combo of barley and wheat give this beer a lot of character. Its like a fresh spiced dinner roll. Smooth honey hits the tongue first. Not too sweet with the careful balance of spicy malts and citrus. Coriander picks up nicely in the middle. Very light and refreshing. Very light hop in the finish with a mellow mix of spice and malt. 24 hay bales out of 16. A very interesting take on a Belgian Witbier classic.

cheers

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Jameson Irish Whiskey

I will never forget my fathers contagious bellowing laughter. The entire house would rumble when he would hear a raunchy off-color joke or witness some poor sap getting hit in the groin on TV. He wasn't some kind of crazy sadist, he just had a sense of humor that was simple. A characteristic that truly defined him as a person. Not simple as in ignorant, simple as in uncomplicated. He knew what he liked, where its was, and how to get it. While this may have barred him form exploring certain foreign delights, it firmly solidified the familiar things he found most enjoyable. As my life progressed from adolescence to adulthood  it became abundantly clear to me that three of these things were not just his own simple, everyday pleasures. They were inheritable genetic traits that were bestowed upon me. An unconscious unwavering adoration of all things Red Sox, an insatiable desire for cop/firefighter dramas, and an unending thirst for Jameson Irish Whiskey.

Originally know in Gaelic as Uisce beatha (isk-ihh bah-hah) or "water of life", Irish Whiskey is one of the oldest forms of a classic spirit. Brought allegedly by St. Patrick himself, distillation showed up in Ireland in approximately the 5th century. With no grapes to convert to wine, the early missionaries had to use grains to concoct their wine for ceremonies. Initially harsh and barely drinkable, people had to wait until the 18th century to find out that aging the raw distilled grain spirit in wood barrels would create something much more enjoyable. Irish Whiskey was the most popular spirit in the world through18th and 19th centuries. Unfortunately, the "luck of the Irish" wouldn't last. In the 20th century Ireland experienced three massive events that would nearly kill the ancient art of Irish whiskey. The Irish War of Independence, American Prohibition, and WWII.

The economic damage caused by the Irish war of Independence was a nearly irreparable blow to the Irish Whiskey industry. The war not only injured its infrastructure it alienated its largest export market, England. Adding injury to injury, Irish Whiskey's second largest market, the U.S., passed The 18th Amendment during the last year of the War. With nearly all its exports choked off, Irish Whiskey was in serious trouble. The last and final blow was WWII. Exhausting every last resource during a massive world wide upheaval, Irish Whiskey was nearly dead. 160 distilleries strong at the end of the 19th century, Ireland would start the 21st century with just three. Old Bushmills, Cooley, and New Midleton.

All three make outstanding whiskeys, some of the worlds best, but only one makes Jameson. New Midleton. Now to be clear, I am fully aware how popular Jameson is and how heavily marketed it is across the globe. I'm not one to drink what my TV tells me. I just know that when I open my cupboard and that green bottle is smiling down on me I get feeling of pure glee. It's the bottle I knew as "dad's secret stash." It's not expensive, it's not hard to find, and most importantly it's not complicated.


My wife says that the strange attachment I have to the Jimmy is that it's my "ancients" trying to communicate with me. I'm pretty sure shes right. Every time I smell that pot still blend I can feel the grass, and see the rolling hills. The yellowish copper pour is always a delight. A sweet barley with honey tickle the nose while the pot still character makes its self present. The combination closely resembles a toasty fresh Ego waffle with syrup.The grassy freshness that is un-malted barley sits comfortably back stage. The cereal malt sweetness hits the tongue first followed by a buttery caramel wash. A light oak with a quick mineral flash (thanks again to the still) mid palette. The careful dance of woods between the oak, sherry, and port casks really play a role in this blend. The character and depth is unheard of in such a light bodied, smooth, easy drinking whiskey. Very mild warmth for a whiskey. The long finish of sweet malt and wood hangs around nicely. Ill give it one Sean out of a Stan. My dads old stand-by still brings the fun.

slainte

Monday, June 20, 2011

Freestyle Pilsner

Santa Fe Brewing began crafting their New Mexico bubbly barley juice in 1988. Desiring an alternative to the mundane macro-lagers, Santa Fe Brewing set out to improve New Mexico's beer selection with quality ingredients and skilled brewing techniques. Expanding in 1997 and again in 2005, Santa Fe has grown into a fine brewery with a charming palette of delicious beer. My personal favorites in Santa Fe's beer quiver are: The wicked aged barley wine, the feisty IPA, the luscious java stout, and the jovial Oktoberfest. The barley wine and IPA are available year round but the java stout and Oktoberfest are their winter and fall seasonals. They are two of three canned seasonals offered by Santa Fe. The third is their summer seasonal, a German-esque Pils called Freestyle Pilsner.


The designs that Santa Fe uses to adorn their cans are some of the best I have seen. Original and unique, the cans are part of the indie spirit embodied by Santa Fe. Each displaying distinct individual characteristics while sharing a few basic design elements. The Freestyle Pilsner comes in a bright reflective green can with gold script and two hop cones on either side. One cone has a gold halo the other has a pair of devil horns. A sign of balance contained within.

The pour is simple and clean. A nice small mellow head grows from medium carbonation. The nose has some mild grassy hops with a grainy present malt. The taste follows the nose. Medium. This is not a bad beer by any means. It's still miles ahead of any thing made by any of the macro-brewers. It's just, well, good. Kinda disappointed with its promise of being a hoppier than average pilsner. The thick grainy malt is fun but it kinda drowns out the seemingly mild hop. 6.2 things out of 8.8 stuff. It's a good beer that I intend to drink again, I just feel that it's not the best Santa Fe has to offer.

cheers

Monday, June 13, 2011

Weihenstephaner Original

Summer has started and the pale lager is flowing! Cool crisp suds that can turn down the heat and compliment just about anything you can concoct on or near a hibachi. Nothing says summer like downing a tall glass of lagered golden refreshment on a hot June afternoon with a plate full of BBQ in your lap. Now don't let the ads fool you into thinking any beer will do. Pale lager has one of the widest qualitative ranges in alcohol so picking the proper pale lager can prove to be quite precocious. If beer simplicity is your desire and all you need to do is to 'wet the whistle' or wash down some potato salad most micro-brew pale lagers and a few macro-beers will do just fine. If however your beer tastes run a bit deeper and you want something with some serious flavor look for the blue bottle with the ridiculously long name.

The Weihenstephan Brewery (Bayerische Staatsbrauerei Weihenstephan in German) claims to be the oldest continuously operating brewery in the world. With a documentable brewery licence dated 1040 AD, I'll take their word for it! Weihenstephan is traditionally known for its delicious, world class hefeweizen. Its "original" style, the Helles Lager, usually plays second fiddle to its more notable brethren. While both are fabulous beers and stylistically near perfection, the Helles is my favorite. To me, it exemplifies what a light lager should be.


Lager in its purist form. Made from simple ingredients in an ancient facility with time honored traditions. A truly magnificent beer that makes American adjunct lagers seem juvenile and petty. If you call yourself a bud/coors/miller man/woman go, now to your local liquor store purchase this and promptly pour it into your head. If this does not cure your condition I fear your television has poisoned your taste buds and you may need professional assistance.

Weihenstephaner (vine-shte-fa-ner) Original pours a glassy straw like color that forms a white pillowy soft head from good carbonation levels. Very light nose. A faint grainy biscuit matched with a mild grassy citrus hop over a distant yeast. Light yet serious and intriguing. The taste matches the nose. Clean and crisp, the lager washes down with ease. The perfect balance of grainy malt and herbal hop are a joy to experience. Let this beer warm up a bit out of the fridge! The essence of banana and honey come out on the nose and through the taste. I know it's a lager but it really blossoms as it warms. Perfect dry finish with a slow fading malt. 87 fresh pretzels found in my 2 pairs of freshly laundered lederhosen.

cheers